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The unique experience of a Sunday soccer match Introducing Italian Soccer
[Pietro Salvadori]
For my beloved readers, and lovers of folk happenings; for armchair anthropologists; for those who, having lived in this city for a while, keep wondering: “Who really is the Florentine? Who is this strange animal that often walks beside me?”For them, to see a typical specimen of Florentine in his natural habitat, I can only recommend one thing: go to a Fiorentina football match on a Sunday afternoon.
The Florentines participate of the changeable destinies of their football team with no distintion of class, education or age, and “stadio life” is one of the few situations where the ancient Florentine spirit - quarrelsome, parochialistic, polemic and absolutely amusing - still comes afloat.
It’s not so important to know something about football: what matters is being there, since the most interesting part of the show takes place on the terraces rather than in the playing field.
To start from the beginning:
1) SECURING YOUR TICKETS
Tickets are available starting the Tuesday before any Sunday match. Buy them at the “Chiosco degli Sportivi” just off Piazza della Repubblica in the heart of the city, or from any conventioned tabaccheria. But for the really bold I suggest a visit to the Bar Marisa, the ‘holy’ meeting point of Fiorentina supporters, just in front of the Stadio Artemio Franchi.
2) CHOOSING YOUR SEAT
The Stadio is divided into several sectors. The cheapest and most popular are the “curve”. Curva Ferrovia is called so because it is nearest the railway. If you’re going there in the winter months, don’t forget your scarf and gloves: it is always in the shade and is often beaten by a bothersome north wind.
At the opposite end is the Curva Fiesole that takes its name from the hill behind it and is the real pulsating heart of Florentine supporters. People there spend most of the time standing close to each other and singing endlessly. It is obviously the place to be. On a bright day don’t forget to wear sunglasses because you’ll have the sun straight into your face for the whole afternoon.
Then we have the Maratona (terraces) just under the stadium tower, which is traditionally a sector for families and polemic football chatterers. The price is higher than the curve and people here stick to their seats, so it’s good for those who wants to appreciate the match, but it’s much fun.
Last but not least there is the “tribuna”, the covered terraces opposite to the Maratona, were the seat prices are highest, people dress smartly and clap their hands but don’t make a sound of cheers. You don’t get wet on a rainy day, you’re not beaten by the wind or risk a sunstroke, and you have a comfortable armchair to seat. But is this why you came to the Stadio after all?
By the way, for the real football enthusiasts a cheaper alternative is the so-called Parterre - the low terraces just along the playing field - where you can hear the coach screaming, and even the cracking of your favourite player’s meniscus just a few steps away.
3) GETTING THERE
If you went to the Bar Marisa to buy your ticket there is no need to say more. Otherwise, take bus number 17, 10, 20 or 11 heading for Campo di Marte. The journey will take you quite a long time since half of the city population will be going the same direction as you with all sorts of transportation, So move early or you’ll be caught in the traffic.
Remember, the Fiorentina color is Purple (Viola), so if you don’t wear something purple buy a Fiorentina scarf from one of those vendors outside the stadio.
4) THE STADIUM
The Florentines are very proud of their Stadio, which is in fact one of the most important examples of Modernist architecture in Italy. Built by engineer Nervi in the 1930s, it is now considered a national monument. When you get there take out your ticket, move towards the gates to your sector and get ready to get inside. Smile to the policemen.
5) THE MATCH
Do what people around you do, stand up when they stand, sit when they do so (a bit like at Mass). If you don’t know what others are singing, try to catch the tune and hum along. Don’t be afraid of hooliganism, if you don’t look for it no one will bother you. Every match is a feast and if you’re in the Curva Fiesole you are likely to be involved into some coreography: never refuse to enrol in such activities, and enjoy the show.
One last - vital!- tip: if you’re wearing a Juventus t-shirt or scarf you’re probably risking your life. Get rid of it. As fast as you can!
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http://www.fiorentina.it/