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Secret gardens
[Susan Glasspool]
It may feel like an overnight change, but summer has been creeping up on us for awhile. The stores normally closed for a permanent siesta are already bustling with tourists while the bars and icecream parlours work non-stop at serving huge dollops of melting gelato and hot nutella crepes. Our suspicions are confirmed by the Cathedral surrounded by swelling crowds and pushy street vendors. Bikes ramble down the sidewalks, women wrestle with overflowing bags of fresh produce, children drip chocolate gelato down their cheeks, calico fans arrive at the stadium in drove, straw hats and sunshades abound: Florence meets up with summer. Now is the opportune time to take advantage of Florence’s natural beauty and explore the cool secret gardens and parks to find a quiet corner away from the heat.If it’s a hidden, neighborhood getaway you want, then head for the Park of Villa Ventaglio, situated just northwest of the soccer stadium on Via Aldini, n.12. This park caters for children and families by offering a clean, smoke-free, calico-free atmosphere. At the entrance you will be welcomed by a field of wild flowers and a path that snakes its way up the Tuscan hillside. Numerous benches are scattered throughout the grounds, making this an ideal place for the booklover or daydreamer.
If you are more inclined towards convenience and temporary escape, there is a small garden only a short walk from the centro off San Borgo Pinti, 99 called Gardens Della Gherardesca. This garden, maintained by the City Council of Florence, features a small pond and tree-lined avenues. Its suggestive backyard-type setting makes it a great after-lunch destination.
The artist in each of us can be explored by taking a trip to the Horticultural Gardens in Via Bolognese, located north of Piazza Libertŕ. A rainbow-colored fountain in the shape of a lizard leads one up the stairs to a wide panoramic view of the city. This contemporary mosaic piece of art is a rare and unusual find amidst a city rooted in rich art history. There is also an inviting greenhouse whose warmth may beckon on chillier evenings.
Try and visit the Torrigiani gardens, which were once and, to a certain extent, still are, fascinating botanically as well as being artistically romantic (though much smaller than the Boboli gardens). They have belonged to the Torrigiani family since the 16th century and were used for the cultivation of rare plants. They were extended in the 18th century when Pietro Torrigiani decided to transform them into an English style garden, very fashionable at the time.
They were designed and laid out by architects Cambray Digny and Gaetano Baccani. As they were right under the city walls, it was impossible to contemplate spacious views, while the lack of water prohibited the typical ponds and waterfalls usually to be found in English gardens. Even so the designers managed to create a delightful harmony of Neogothic architecture, groups of sculpture and grassy areas intermingled with winding paths, lawns and other elements.
Not notmally open to the public, the Torrigiani gardens have seen many changes since then but are certainly worth a visit, as they are still one of the most interesting gardens in Florence.
Next time you find yourself wishing for a simple getaway, grab your sunglasses, a bottle of wine, a good book, and a few friends to explore an afternoon basking in the natural beauty of Tuscany.
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