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a glutton tour of florence

At the Steak Place
[Roman Pomanrick]

Tuscan cooking is famous in the world for its simple and timeless flavours, the end result of centuries of healthy country fare that has never lost sight of its origins. Many restaurants now offer more creative menus, elaborating the local dishes that are anyway based on the original versions that have been passed down for generations. Traditional starters include crostini (tasty chicken liver canapés) or mixed plates of Tuscan cured hams. First courses include the delicious Florentine soups, based on beans or chick-peas, spelt and vegetables. The local pasta dishes, often with home-made pasta, usually come with a meat sauce. Meats are invariably roasted or grilled, stews are more rare in Tuscan cooking. A must is the famous bistecca fiorentina, which should be thick, rare and crisply grilled. Vegetables are always seasonal, though beans are popular throughout the year. Look out for the light batter-fried vegetables, always winners, and the fresh salad mixes. Note the importance of olive oil in Tuscan menus. Our selection offers you the chance to enjoy the best of traditional cooking in some restaurants in the centre: quality food, an original atmosphere and reasonable prices.
We advise you to try dining at Trattoria 13 Gobbi in Via del Porcellana, 9r (055.284015) where you can still find a friendly atmosphere and genuine Florentine cooking. The food is particularly good, especially the Florentine steaks. Taste their delicious “pici” in olive oil and hot pepper flakes or the “tagliata”, the excellent risotto with baby zucchini and cheese or the “ziti” in a fresh-tasting green tomato sauce. Vin santo and Prato biscuits are a great way of ending your dinner. On hot evenings you can dine among flowers and greenery in the pleasant garden.

In Santa Croce area, near the Bargello, in Via della Vigna Vecchia 40r, try Acqua Al 2 (055.284170) for its innovative and unchanging menu; here you can get a taste of all things Italian. Highly recommended is the Assaggio di Primi, consisting of five different pasta dishes that are brought to your table piping-hot and fresh from the kitchen. Similar samplers can be ordered with salads, cheeses, steaks, and desserts. Acqua al 2 first opened its doors in 1978 and is now so popular that the owners have since opened an american bistrot across the street.

Located a short walk from Ponte Vecchio, in Borgo San Jacopo 37r, Mamma Gina (055.2396009) is perfect for a dinner with your parents just arrived from USA. This is not the place to skip-out on an antipasto or two, so don’t worry when you receive the menu. Your waiter may even recommend one of his favourite dishes, often a Tuscan specialty like the grilled Chianina filet of steak. Established in 1956, Ristorante Mamma Gina is not a newcomer to Florence; it has been challenging the world of traditional Tuscan cuisine for years, together with its two other successful locations in California.
Beccofino in Piazza degli Scarlatti 1r (055.290076), on the south bank of the Arno, offers an informal and welcoming atmosphere. The modern Italian menu is excellent and fairly priced. Beccofino operates both as an enoteca and restaurant and the wine bar is much quieter and extraordinarily good value for lunch. Beccofino is one of the most fashionable restaurants in town, a hotspot for young Florentines. Take advantage of the 10% discount for VIVIFIRENZE readers. The staff is smooth and courteous, the soundtrack groovy and there is a superb list of wines. In the summer you can dine outside and enjoy beautiful views of the Lungarno.

Just a few steps from Piazza del Duomo, at Ristorante Giannino in Borgo San Lorenzo 35r (055.212206), you’ll be able to enjoy the varied and original Florentine cuisine right in the heart of all the action. The average steak served at Giannino’s must be an inch thick and complete with its T-bone, tenderloin and filet, accompanied by a green salad or white beans dressed in oil. The menu also offers a wide choice of zuppe (traditional Florentine soups, including the Pappa al Pomodoro) or first course pastas if you want a lighter meal.

In Piazza del Mercato Centrale di San Lorenzo 26r, don’t miss ZàZà, (055.215411) where you can eat like a king! This characteristic trattoria is a splash of Bohemian glamour rooted in classical Tuscan cuisine. It also has tables outside in the historic square. Famous for its traditional and typical Florentine cuisine, its first courses include spelt soup or pasta with chick-peas, while main courses boast braised beef stracotto, lamb and cacciucco (fish stew). And if none of this suits you, don’t worry, they’ll grill you a steak. Don’t miss their excellent panna cotta at the end of your meal.

La Spada, in Via della Spada 62r (055.218757), only a few steps from Piazza Santa Maria Novella, is a simple but welcoming trattoria. It is famous for its menu based on roast meats, grilled right in front of you in the huge fireplace, along with the meat turning on the spit: roast beef, roast Florentine style pork on the bone, spare ribs, veal, delicious local roast liver and of course chicken. The busy and entertaining atmosphere is perfect way of spending an enjoyable evening.



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