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on sundays all true... Florentines turn purple
[Pietro Salvadori]
If you have lived in Florence for some time you may ask yourself: “What are the real Florentines like? There is only one way of seeing a typical specimen of the Florentine in his natural habitat: by going to a Fiorentina football match on a Sunday afternoon. The Florentines participate in the changeable destinies of their football team without any distinction of class, education or age and “stadium life” is one of the few situations where the ancient Florentine spirit - quarrelsome, partisan, controversial and really amusing - still comes to the fore. It doesn’t matter whether you understand something about football or not: what matters is being there, for the most interesting moments in the afternoon take place among the tiers of seats, rather than on the pitch!1) Buying tickets!
Tickets are available from the Tuesday before any Sunday match from any contracted tabacconist. However I advise the really daring to buy their tickets at Bar Marisa, a ‘holy of holies’ and meeting point for Fiorentina supporters, right in front of the Artemio Franchi Stadium.
2) Choosing your seat
The Stadium is divided into several sectors and the seats are now numbered, The cheapest and most popular are situated in the “curves”.
The Curva Ferrovia gets its name from its vicinity to the railway. If you get seats there in the winter months, don’t forget your scarf and gloves: it is never in the sun and perfectly placed to catch the worst of the freezing north wind. The Curva Fiesole, which takes its name from the hill behind it, is at the opposite end and reflects the real heart of Florentine supporters. Spectators here spend most of their time standing up and singing non-stop. It is obviously the place to be. The tiered seats of the Maratona are just under the stadium tower and traditionally a sector for families and controversial football talk. Seats cost more here and people stay seated, so it’s a good place for watching the match but not anything like so much fun. Last, but not least, comes the “Tribune”, the covered terraces opposite the Maratona. The prices of seats are higher, people dress smartly and clap, but don’t cheer. You don’t get wet on a rainy day, wind blown or risk sunstroke and you have a comfortable seat. But is this what you came to the Stadium for?
3) GETTING THERE
Catch bus number 17, 10, 20 or 11 in the direction of Campo di Marte. We advise you to start out early or you’ll be caught in the traffic. Remember that the Fiorentina colours are Purple (Viola), so if you don’t have something purple to wear, buy a Fiorentina scarf from one of the vendors outside the stadium.
4) THE MATCH
Do what everyone else around you is doing, stand up when they stand, sit when they sit (rather like you would do in Church!). And, if you don’t know what they are singing, just try to catch the tune and hum along. Don’t be afraid of hooliganism, if you are not looking for trouble, no one will bother you.
Every match becomes a mass party and, if you’re in Curva Fiesole, you will probably also be involved in the group coreography: never refuse to join in as you will find it will make the match even more enjoyable.
One last and most important tip: if you wear a Juventus T-shirt or scarf you’re probably risking your life. Get rid of it. As fast as you can!
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