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An Etruscan town on a hilltop overlooking Florence

Fiesole, unique, in the Spring
[Susan Glasspool]

Fiesole is one of the few places just outside Florence that most people want to visit when they are here. In May and June it is particularly beautiful as the flowers are out, especially the really spectacular wysteria, and it is not to hot to climb up some of the steeper hills.
An ancient Etruscan town (you can still see vestiges of its mighty walls), it was conquered by the Romans who built the Roman amphitheatre, baths and other buildings, Its position however was always an attractive one, especially its sunny slopes rising up from Florence, protected by the mountains at the rear. The Medici and other aristocracy made it popular, building the splendid villas that we can still see today. The terraced olive groves covering the hills of Fiesole are the result of the work of centuries and were greatly cultivated during the Grand Duchy of Florence (from 1555 to the late 18th century).
Many illustrious foreigners, most of them English, chose to reside in these hills during the 19th century. They acquired and restored the old villas, built new ones in fake Gothic or Renaissance styles, some of which were quite bizarre. These villas were surrounded by large and beautiful gardens, many of which can be visited today (check with the Fiesole Tourist board tel. 800.414240).
The landscape began to be dominated by dark towering cypress trees that are now so typical of the area. The hills of Fiesole have been the inspiration of poets, writers and artists for centuries and were also greatly loved by Queen Victoria, who knew the area from childhood.
Enough of the history! You can catch a nr. 7 bus for Fiesole from Piazza Stazione or, if you prefer from Piazza San Marco, as it is a rather long walk on foot! The ride takes you up past many of the most beautiful villas in Tuscany. If you stop half-way you can also visit San Domenico, the Convent and Church, and the ancient Badia Fiesolana, just down the hill
Once in the pretty square you should visit the archeological area, with the Roman theatre and Archaeological Museum, full of Etruscan finds, the Bandini Museum, with its fascinating collection of 13th and 14th century paintings and Della Della Robbia sculpture.
You should also go and admire the splendid Romanesque Cathedral of San Romolo, the Church of Santa Maria Primerana at the top of the square, or the Etruscan walls nearby. The energetic can climb up the steep hill to the Chapel of San Jacopo, the Basilica of Sant’Alessandro and the beautiful Church of San Francesco, giving onto some really magificent views of Florence and the countryside around Fiesole.
Visit the Primo Conti Museum, recently re-named the Avant-Garde Museum, which contains over 150 drawings and paintings carried out by this Futurist artist between 1911 and 1985.
You will find that a trip to Fiesole makes a really enjoyable day out, far away from the bustle and noise of the city below, and you will want to return over and over again.



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