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LIFE’S A BEACH ! (PT.1)

LIFE’S A BEACH ! (PT.2)

Taking in a few sights on the way!

A quick jog along the Arno
[Susan Glasspool]

Downstream from the Ponte Vecchio, where it is well worth making a quick detour to admire the splendid contents in its tiny old jeweller’s shops, you will find yourself in Lungarno degli Acciaiuoli, the oldest section of the streets that run alongside the Arno.

Here, if you like, you can turn off into Chiasso del Bene and then left again along Borgo Santissimi Apostoli to reach the tiny Piazza del Limbo and the church of SS. Apostoli, one of Florence’s prettiest Romanesque buildings.

If you then go back to the Lungarno and continue downstream, you will pass a series of imposing houses and select shops before reaching Ponte Santa Trinita. This bridge, which links Via Tornabuoni with Via Maggio, was built by Bartolomeo Ammanati between 1567 and 1570. Note Palazzo Spini Feroni, with the Ferragamo store, on the corner Via Tornabuoni. You now follow the Arno along Lungarno Corsini, with splendid Palazzo Corsini by Alfonso Parigi and Ferdinando Tacca, and Palazzo Ricasoli, the last palace before the next bridge, attributed to Michelozzo, though built after his death (1480-1500). Ponte alla Carraia is followed by Lungarno Vespucci, of fairly recent date (1854), as previously the gardens attached to the houses at this end of Borgo Ognissanti extended right down to the river.

Lungarno Vespucci opens onto Piazza Ognissanti, dominated by the church’s Baroque façade, and where two historic hotels, the Westin Excelsior, where Rubinstein, Orson Welles, Charlie Chaplin, Hiro Hito, Henry Ford, Juliana of Holland, and Bill and Hilary Clinton and other personalities have stayed, and the Grand Hotel, face each other across the square.

A little further on, past stately houses and the occasional garden, we can also find the American Consulate, while Corso Italia, running parallel behind it, hosts Florence’s Opera House, the Teatro Comunale, where famous singers and conductors have made musical history.

Lungarno Vespucci now leads towards Ponte alla Vittoria, and from here, if you still have plenty of breath left, you can continue through the Park of the Cascine, which extends downstream for another 3 kilometres. It hosts meadows, playing fields, stables, footpaths, a race track and a public swimming pool. It was originally a farm belonging to the Medici and Lorraine families and donated to the public in the 18th century.

At the far end you can find the curious tomb of an Indian prince, who died in Florence and was buried at the meeting of two rivers as prescribed by his religion. All on the level, it is an extremely pleasant place for jogging (many athletes train here), or simply walking, especially in the early Spring.


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