finding your way through it
A Tuscan Menu
[
Maddalena Delli]

Faithful to its peasant roots, Tuscan cooking relies on saltless bread, fresh local ingredients, herbs and plentiful olive oil. But where should you start picking when facing your restaurant menu? Chicken liver 'crostini' are the traditional starter. Or you might like some 'fettunta' (toasted bread with garlic and olive oil) or a mixed platter of cured Tuscan meats.
Pasta dishes are less common here than elsewhere in Italy. Tuscan first courses are mostly bean soups or bread-based preparations, all of them a feat for vegetarians. They can be cooked - like 'pappa al pomodoro' (bread and tomato soup) and 'ribollita' (vegetable, bean and bread soup) - or cold such as 'panzanella' (bread salad).
On the other hand, 'bistecca alla fiorentina' is the ultimate treat for lovers of red meat. The real thing is about one inch thick and grilled over an open flame. Should the Italian term 'bistecca' sound not wholly unfamiliar to your English ear, you'd be only too right: the word is in fact a popularisation of what the locals heard English visitors call 'beef steak'! In case you do not like your beef rare, a savoury barbecued alternative is 'rosticciana' (pork ribs), while a mouth watering side dish might be a mixed platter of deep fried courgettes, artichokes, zucchini flowers and even sage leaves. Should you feel adventurous enough, other tasty main courses are 'trippa alla fiorentina' (braised tripe with tomato sauce) or game. Tuscans are jokingly called 'mangiafagioli' (bean-eaters) for their love of beans. A traditional way of cooking them is in a flask over a dying fire until they reach a creamy consistency.
For desserts try 'zuccotto' (ice-cream sponge cake) or 'cantucci' (almond biscuits from Prato) dipped in sweet or dry Vin Santo. Worthy of mention is 'pecorino' (sheepsmilk) cheese, ranging from creamy fresh to piquant mature. Try it with pears or with honey, you'll be surprised!
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