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Come Join the Craich! Let out the Leprechaun in you
[Maddalena Delli]
As Pete McCarthy cunningly observed in his bestselling McCarthy's Bar, “The global hype about all things Irish shows no sign of burning out yet.” No wonder, he goes on to explain, since “the Irish are perceived as young, eloquent, romantic, tuneful, mystical, funny, and expert havers-of-a-good-time.” The fever reaches red-hot temperatures every year in March, around St. Patrick's day.Needless to say, Florence is no exception to the rule, and for nine years running it has been falling victim to its own particular brand of uncurable Paddy's fever. This year makes no exception, with the usual Irlanda in Festa event scheduled to take the Saschall by storm between Monday 15th and Saturday 20th of March. So if you too can't resist the call of fiddles, pipes and bodhráns; if you can't keep your feet from dancing when hearing a jig; if you can't avoid joining in when someone strikes up “Whiskey in the Jar”; then you know what's the place to be. And rest assured, should you feel thirsty after all the singing and dancing, there will be streams of your favorite stout beer to quench your thirst.
The daily program of Irlanda in Festa offers five hours of live music starting every evening from 8.30pm with Amergin, the resident band coming from Kenmare (Co. Kerry). They will then be joined by important guest artists: on the first three nights (including St. Patrick’s) you will have a chance to discover the combat-folk music of the Italian band Modena City Ramblers. Thursday 18th will see onstage the Scottish band Waterboys and Massimo Bubola, a much appreciated Italian musician and poet whose hit songs aptly include Il cielo d’Irlanda (Irish skies). Friday 19th will see the concert of Albion Band from England. On the closing night (Sat. 20th) there will be two more outstanding performances, one by John Mc Sherry (the undisputed master of uillean pipes) and his band, and one by the local band Whisky Trail, heralds for nearly thirty years of celtic folk music in Italy.
But let’s go back to Pete McCarthy: his book is an inspiring account of his travels in western Ireland, trying to sort out his Anglo-Irish identity and obeying “The Eight Rule of Travel (…): Never pass a bar that has your name on it”. Well, in Florence he wouldn’t have been successful: as far as I’m aware there are no bars called McCarthy’s here. Still, there are plenty of Irish pubs in town, and – why not! - you can make up your own ad-hoc rule for a good excuse not to pass them by.
Let’s start with the TRIP PER RTRE ROCK GUITAR PUB in Borgognissanti 144r (tel. 055.292085). Ten years ago, this was one of the first Irish pubs to root in Florence, and the winning mix of rock music, Irish beer and Tuscan dishes has attracted a varied crowd of visitors and regulars eversince. The typical Tuscan bread from a wood-burning oven is at the core of the delicious, freshly cut panini. Wash them down with a pint of cold Guinness beer or with other draught beers such as the Weizen Kapuziner. The Trip per Tre also offers a selection of excellent music including videos of the best rock concerts from the Sixties to the present.
The CLURICANE IRISH PUB located in piazza dell'Olio 9r (tel. 055.284509) just a few steps from the Duomo, was established in December 2000. Both its furniture and its manager come from Ireland, and the bar boasts the Guinness seal of origin. Tiny yet so full of character, it provides an outside seating area allowing customers to sip their drinks in a picturesque corner set in the heart of the pedestrian area. The selection of Irish labels caters for all tastes, from Guinness stout to Kilkenny Cream ale or Harp lager.
The OLD STOVE in via Pellicceria 2/4r (tel. 055.284640) is open from 12 noon till 2.30am. Here you can choose from a wide selection of Irish beers and delicious Irish appetizers. On fine evenings you can also enjoy the outside seating. Its twin establishment, the LION'S FOUNTAIN, is located in Borgo ALbizi 34r (tel. 055.2344412) and is open daily from 6pm till 2.30am. It boasts an outdoor patio and provides music, snacks, dinner, sandwiches as well as international sports %26 video-sat circuit with US sport events such as NBA, NFL, MLB, NCAA. Both The Old Stove and The Lion's Fountain organize their own St. Patrick’s week between 10th and 17th March with Irish whiskey and Irish Cream tastings, special prices and gifts. At midnight on 17th March there will be a slice of traditional Irish cake for everyone!
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