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skiing in Tuscany for fun and exercise In White Suit
[Rocco Barisci]
When we think about the winter, we can't help conjuring up images of the bad season, when we get cold and wet and windy weather and we are not pleased even to just step out of our warm bed in the morning. But there are places where the winter time is like a second spring, where it triggers a second and different rush of life, and these places are mountains. Here the "bad season" is awaited like an old friend that year after year brings a beautiful, glowing gift: snow.Living in Florence, the handiest skiing destination are the Appennine mountains in the province of Pistoia. The winter resorts of the area include villages like Pian degli Ontani, Pian di Novello, Doganaccia and Cutigliano, but the most important is certainly Abetone, well-loved and visited by tourists from all over the world. The location is renowned not only for the beauty and variety of its ski-slopes but also for its world-class champions like Zeno Colò, Celina Seghi and Vittorio Chierroni.
Abetone in Italian means "big fir" and the name comes from a huge tree that stood there until it was cut down in the mid-18th century. It is situated on the mountain pass of the same name marking the border between Tuscany and Emilia, on the main Abetone-Brennero road that climbs to an altitude of 1,388 metres on sea level surrounded by a large forest of fir trees which is ennobled by the presence of the rare red fir variety.
Abetone is just 85 km from Florence and it's the Florentines' favourite destination for a skiing weekend or even for a day trip. Skiers first arrived in the village at the beginning of the 20th century, but nowadays the skiing area extends over four wonderful valleys - Val di Luce, Valle della Scoltella, Sestaione and Lima valleys - with a total 80 kilometres the ski-slopes that reach altitudes of up to 1900 m. The ski resorts have also recently been equipped with artificial snow machines, granting 40 km of constantly snow-covered slopes.
The skiing season opens on December 8th, but the best period is between January and March, when the slopes can become very crowded especially during the weekends. Abetone is also popular for weekly packages called settimana bianca (white week), when people (mostly families) take a week off on the slopes. If you like skiing, at Abetone you will certainly find something suitable for your taste and ability, and there is so much choice that you can ski all day always changing trail. The wide runs are ideal for all skiers, from beginners to experts.
The most popular runs are on mount Gomito, which is reached by the Ovovia lift: they are named Zeno One, Two and Three as a tribute to the local Olympic gold winner Zeno Colò. Another popular feature is the new Abetone terrain park, a state-of-the-art facility boasting half-pipe and 10-foot jumps for the pleasure and thrill of daring snowboarders.
If you want to enjoy the fun and exercise of a few days out on the ski slopes, don't be put off by the fact that you didn't carry your skiing equipment to Florence with you: Abetone abounds in ski rental stores that will provide all kinds of stuff: skis and poles, boots and boards to match your size and height.
First-time skiers and boarders will find in the Campo Tennis and the Campo Scuola a good, smooth place to learn, best under the guidance of a trained teacher by one of the three local ski schools (Scuola Sci Abetone, Scuola Italiana Sci Monte Gomito and Scuola Sci Colò) that offer both individual lessons and group discounts.
At lunch time, you have several options, including eating in the village down at the pass or high up on the slopes at the self-service near the Ovovia or the Rifugi at La Selletta and Val di Luce: thay are unexpensive and charming solutions in rustic wooden lodges, with an informal and relaxing atmosphere. Like Italians always do, you also have a great opportunity to take an after-lunch nap on the outdoor chairs, which is an excellent excuse for a suntanning session, great for a little peaceful rest but also a favourite if you want to save your energies for some nightlife, at the local pub or disco on the main square.
Overnight accommodation offers a wide selection of lodging including four-star hotels with swimming pool, cheaper hotels, a youth hostel, rooms to let, tourist villages, mountain huts and villas. There are also several Tuscan-style restaurants on all price ranges, pizzerias and snack-bars.
Typical food from this area includes mushrooms, cheese, cured meats and frutti di bosco (wild berries). Characteristic is the local pecorino cheese, made only with milk of local sheep and strictly from raw milk that is transformed into cheese within 2 hours of milking. It can be eaten mature or fresh (pecorino fresco, aged for fewer than 20 days, or abbucciato, aged for 35-40 days). Porcini mushrooms are dried or frozen for out-of-season use and make excellent sauces, while blueberries, raspberries and blackberries are used to make jams or to flavor distilled spirits. The local honey is also excellent, while the sweet flour obtained from drying and grinding chestnuts makes delicious pancakes called necci, that are traditionally cooked on a hot stone slate and served with fresh ricotta cheese filling.
MORE INFO:
www.abetone.org
www.valdiluce.com
www.pistoia.turismo.toscana.it
Tourist info: 0573.60231
Ski infoline: 0573.60001
HOW TO GET THERE:
- BY BUS: Copit operates daily 3 or 4 direct bus services to and from Abetone. Buses take approx. 3 hours each way. The departure point and ticket office are located in Largo Alinari in Florence (that's the strip of road between Piazza Stazione and via Nazionale). Infoline 055.21463 or check www.copitspa.it for details.
- BY CAR: From Florence take the A11 (Firenze-Mare) motorway to Pistoia. From there follow S.S. 66 to La Lima and then continue along S.S. 12 to Abetone. Be careful when driving, the road is often icy and you should be prepared to fit snow chains on your tyres (if renting the car, make sure it comes with tyre chains in the trunk!).
MORE
http://www.abetone.org
http://www.valdiluce.com
http://www.pistoia.turismo.toscana.it
http://www.copitspa.it