The priceless qualities of olive oil
Liquid Gold
[
Maddalena Delli]

Italy produces nearly one third of the world’s olive oil, and its distinguished extra virgin variety is guaranteed by strict legislation on the subject.
The olive tree and the oil obtained from its fruit were already known to the ancient peoples of the south-eastern Mediterranean countries, though their production methods were fairly primitive. The Cretans first and the Greek afterwards perfected the cultivation, harvesting and pressing methods. Olive growing in Italy dates from Etruscan times (6th century B.C.) and it was further developed by the Romans. With the fall of the Roman empire the vast organization for growing and marketing olives fell into disarray. Monasteries were the first to tend the great olive groves again before the medieval city states started to foster olive growing once more.
Tuscany is a famous olive-growing region and the olive groves on the wooded hillsides are a distinctive feature of our landscape, though some areas are more favourable than others. Olive groves are usually quite small or medium-sized at most, so the local crop is not large but of a superior class. Italian olive oil can differ greatly depending on its area of origin. It can be pale yellow, greenish-yellow, or olive green in color and its aroma may be delicate, or sweet, or refined, or fresh, or
intense. Tuscany produces some of the finest olive oils in Italy and, although they vary in much the same way as wines do, generally Tuscan olive oils are slightly bitter, with a rich color and a strong, peppery scent. This is because nearly everywhere in Tuscany the tendency is to harvest the olives early and produce fruity oils that are also richer in anti-oxidants and other nutritious substances.
In order to obtain high quality oil it is of utmost importance that the olives arrive at the press healthy, whole, and as quickly as possible after picking (which is done mostly by hand). After being washed and cleaned, the olives undergo three further phases: breakdown, crushing and extraction. The breakdown smashes the pulp and seeds that are then slowly remixed in the crusher. The phase of extraction splits the paste into its three components: the oil, the marc and the watery part or vegetable water. Then before bottling the oil is filtered.
Olive oil is graded according to its acidity and labelled as Olio Extra Vergine di Oliva (whose oleic acids must be under 1%), Olio Vergine di Oliva (if its acidity is maximum 2%) or simply Olio di Oliva. However, extra virgin Tuscan oils are required to have a maximum acidity of 0.6%.
Olive oil keeps for up to eighteen months, on condition that it is protected from excesses of temperature, from light and from contact with the air. However you should remember that unlike fine wine, fine olive oil does not improve with age and is best used during the first six months of pressing.
Extra virgin oils are certainly the most aromatic and integral in their original components. This is why they are so appetizing, so tasty and full of body, perfect for dressing any dish without sacrificing one’s waistline. In fact olive Oil is not just pleasing to the palate but it is also healthy and more easily digested than any other oil. Research has shown that the incidence of heart disease is dramatically lower in counties where olive oil is a dietary staple (i.e. Mediterranean countries). Science has also determined that olive oil, as a monounsaturated fat, increases HDL or good blood cholesterol. However it is important to remember that olive oil is still a fat and should be consumed in proper ratio to a balanced diet.
Olive oil remains an essential ingredient of Tuscan cuisine and a vital flavoring in both cooked dishes and salads. The best way of tasting it is fettunta: grill some slices of Tuscan bread over a fire or toast them in the oven until golden brown, then rub them with the garlic, drizzle with abundant olive oil and sprinkle with salt. Serve immediately. A few drops of raw olive oil are also an excellent addition to bean soups and barbecued meat.
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